SIO Tips no. 74 - Sew and Sew: Keeping it trim!

Getting to the end stages of a project is exciting but it is important to take the time to finish things off properly so your work looks polished no matter what you are making, whether you are sewing up a new dress or making a soft toy.

My number one tip is to trim your seam allowances after sewing, making sure to snip around corners and curves as you go. Press the seams out once you've finished trimming so that the fabric doesn't bunch up or look bulky when you turn it the right way out.

This makes the most of your careful pattern cutting and gives you professional results every time.

SIO Tips no. 73 - Sew & Sew: Using your pins

One nifty trick has seen me through many sewing projects (thanks Mum!); it's very simple and makes sewing using a machine so much easier.

When sewing by hand most people pin their project together with the pins pointing away from them running parallel to the edge of the fabric. This can mean they get in the way when machine sewing and slows the whole process down. 

Try pinning at right angles to the fabric edge instead, this means that you can sew right over the pins and pull them all out easily once you're done. 

Make sure the heads of the pins are on the outside so that they don't go under the foot of the machine, you only want to sew across the thinnest part.

SIO Tips no. 68 - Care for your Sewing Machine - Part Two

Keeping your Sewing Machine running nicely takes a little input on your part.
Here are a few more tips on keeping yours at it's very best, simply:

 
5. Be sure to keep your machine covered when you're not using it to keep it dust free.

6. Give your machine a clean up before you put it away if it is going into storage.

7. If you haven't used your machine for a while or it has been in storage, run it for a bit without any thread to get the parts all moving nicely again. It's also a good idea to practice on a scrap of fabric before sewing your final project.

Click here if you missed Part One.

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time. 

SIO Tips no. 67 - Care for your Sewing Machine - Part One

Keeping your Sewing Machine running nicely takes a little input on your part.  
Here are a few tips on keeping yours at it's very best, simply:


1. Use your sewing machine's manual for care at home instructions and have it service by a professional annually.

2. Regularly clean lint from the bobbin case area & lubricate with a drop of oil.

3. Change the needle often. Blunt needles will make your machine work harder & won't give you such a good finish on your project as sharp ones.

Look out for Part Two coming soon...

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time. 

SIO Tips 66: Easy seam allowance guide

Keeping an even seam allowance can be tricky especially if you need a wider one than normal. This simple trick helps guide as you sew: stretch a rubber band around the base of your sewing machine to the width you are want to sew. It's easy to follow and stays in place securely; it's also really easy to move for wider or narrower seams.


SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time. 

SIO Tips 63: Snipping Corners and Excess

If you are sewing something that needs to be turned inside out when finished, make sure you snip the corners before you turn it right side out. This will make it easier to push the corners out and a neater final project because there won’t be so much excess fabric making lumpy edges. The same applies if you have excess fabric on the seam; trim some of it off, avoiding clipping the stitches before turning the fabric right side out as well.

 

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 54: Choosing the Right Needle

Always use the right size sewing machine needle for the job, don't just consider the fabric consider how thick the thickest piece will be.  You might be using thin cotton but if six layers thick it changes the needle to use.

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 53: Felting

Felted wool, knitting and then felting.  Dry as quickly but as naturally as you can, suggest a baking rack on a tray in a warm kitchen. Tease into shape very gently.

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 52: Sewing Machine Needle Care

Sewing machine needles should be changed reasonably often to ensure crisp sewing stitches and the smallest possible puncture marks.  Will look less unsightly if you have to unpick.

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

"No New Clothes for Jodie" - Part 2

Guest blog from Space to Sew 

"I have to say that in taking up the gauntlet to join in the Jodie "No New Clothes Challenge" I wasn't expecting it to turn competitive - or for my clothes to be copied before I've even had a chance to wear them! Though admittedly sharing patterns and ideas is one of the huge benefits of sewing with others. Nevertheless as the first version of my 40s blouse (pictured left) is finally complete (who says I never do any sewing or complete anything?!) it has been so admired that it is already being copied by the amazing Jodie, allegedly because she so loves the pattern she's been dying to sew it. I have to admit that despite my apparent protests she is of course right: it is a great pattern, though I wish I could take credit for it. Credit is however due to tutor Kate, designer extraordinaire, who spotted its potential - for me at least! - the moment the pattern arrived. I originally only intended to make the skirt: it was Kate who suggested I make the blouse (and bolero actually!) and I really only agreed to work on the blouse because the original blouse or bolero pieces will be much easier to frame than the skirt ones due to their smaller size. (Apologies: the original pieces are still not framed as I am still trying to work out how to do that effectively!).
However once again Kate's designer eye has been proved right and the 40s blouse is a huge hit, even though this 'prototype' is a first draft and not yet made to the standard I intend to achieve on repeating it. (cf. part of Goal no. 2: to sew the next one better!)
It would seem though that the blouse pattern is about to stand another challenge as Jodie and I usually wear completely different styles, so it will be interesting to see how it turns out for her. Isn't she lucky that I hadn't thrown the toile away and she could use it? A great recycling use of the first toile I drafted, though I am not totally convinced that Jodie should have evaded the original pain of tracing off an original 40s pattern without pins: be warned Jodie, you owe me a 'pattern trace'! That apart, I am actually quite excited at seeing the Jodie version (I heard a whisper from another Club member the other day about also wanting to make up their own version of the same blouse - Kate eat your heart out!). But ladies, I need to say very firmly at this point, that other than in a 1940s fashion show (do I sense an event coming on?), we absolutely cannot be seen wearing them at the same time at the same party! In the meantime I can say that thanks to the photographic evidence I can prove that I have completed Goal 1 of my 2013-2014 Dressmaking Goals. And whether I like to admit it or not just now, this is very much due to Jodie spurring me on because of the shared (non-competitive!) challenge. Hopefully the favour has been returned as she has just sent me her written Sewing Goals. So here they are below. Note the hoodie (where's the 40s influence in that?!) by her own admission one of her favourite items of clothing - don't worry Jodie: not an item you're in danger of me copying!
No new clothes for Jodie update: Jodie's 2013 Sewing Goals - in her own words of course!
"The aim of this challenge was firstly to improve my sewing, however 6 months in I feel somewhat behind where I wanted to be. I have had a few unexpected outside (to sewing) challenges but still! Inspired by Domini's sewing goals I am setting myself both projects to complete and also some techniques I would like to master alongside them. 

Here I go:

1. I live with external hope of a summer so.... a summer dress (I have started this project already) Technique to be mastered.....lining a dress and fitting 
2. A jersey dress, this is for the autumn/winter which will be here quicker than summer so best get started. Technique to be overcome.....jersey and the challenges it brings 
3. A shirt, I love to wear shirts and they never appear to fit well so this is a challenge to be met. This will be my most advanced project of new things including buttons, collars, fitting, the dreaded placket word, so please wish me luck. 
4. A hoodie, I LOVE hoodies and having already attempted one I think another more polished attempt is needed! 
5. As mentioned by Domini above, the 1940's blouse pattern I have "borrowed" from her (thank you). I really love the style and so want to see if I can find my very own and see how this differs from modern patterns. Lots to learn here, vintage patterns are a whole new world and I will be looking to Domini and others at space to sew for help. 

Of all I make I will also complete a quick blog of how I get on, even if I fail! - Jodie"
Domini again: There's no question of Jodie failing as she just doesn't. She has the most extraordinary perseverance and tries things that others would rather not even attempt (and not just hoodies!). As regards helping you with vintage patterns I think it will be Kate and the other tutors we'll need to turn to for that. However I can help you by holding on to the patterns while you trace around them so you don't use any pins!
P.S. I'm glad you want to make a shirt. I'll let you experiment with that one first and learn from you I think. That is the most daunting project I can think of just now, but I know you'll succeed with it even if I don't!

Part 1 - in case you missed it!

@SpacetoSew
www.spacetosew.co.uk

SIO Tips no. 44: Sewing Machine Tips 3.

Needles, it is vital that you get the correct needle size for the job. Fine needles used on denim will snap; often inside the machine, so you risk damaging your machine or hurting yourself as you try to extract the broken needle from the work or machine. Needles specific to your machine and your work are very important and will mean you get great results from a sewing machine that will last you years.


SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 43: Sewing Machine Tips 2.

Cheap cotton is just that, cheap! and so those lumps and bumps, however fine, have to work their way through your machine and can damage the machine over time. The cotton often snaps during work. Buy good quality thread and treat your machine with the respect it deserves. Use the right thread for the job, ask your haberdasher which is right for the fabric if unsure.

 SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 42: Sewing Machine Tips 1.

When using a sewing machine ensure you follow the instructions to the letter on how to thread. A badly threaded machine, if it works, will strain the workings and damage the machine long term plus probably stitch your work with poor tension.


SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.

SIO Tips no. 38

A stitch in time saves nine! The old ones are the best, well, so the comedians say.
Some of the simple pieces of advice from the past are some of the best. 

 Sewing: When making up a project it is quicker to pin and check, then even baste (long simple stitches - removed after seams sewn) your work so you can really see if you have it made up correctly before you finally machine stitch.  Unpicking fine machine stitching is soul destroying - avoid at all costs.

SIO Tips no. 35

Finishing a seam when machine sewing: When neatening/cutting off the ends of the cotton ensure you cut the right side thread first. Cut just this one, close to your work and then gently pull the thread on the back/wrong side; which in turn pulls through the lose end of the right side thread onto the back/wrong side, this will ensure neatness. Now cut the back/wrong side thread close to the work.

SEEKITOUT: Changing the world a stitch at a time.